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| Ice wine warms Chinese market冰酒温暖中国市场 |
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☆☆ Great Wall Winery in ChangLi in Hebei province is another project ready and waiting for an influx of visitors. There are 1500 barriques of the 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon maturing gently under the banner for the 2008 Beijing Olympics. ‘It was a good year and we decided to create a special wine to serve at that time’ said Bin Yan, female oenologue at this winery around 150 miles west of Beijing, close to the coast where summer and winter extremes are moderated by the sea. With cellars hewn straight out of the hillside, 10,000 expensive French and American barrels used for maturation, and a visitor centre ready for the hordes, it seems that cost is not a problem. The wines vary between commercial everyday qualities and exceptional, lush, rich-tasting styles. As with many Chinese alcohol products there is a thriving gift market where packaging and presentation is the key to prestige and sales but new legislation this year will gradually shift this emphasis away from the box to the product inside. This will be welcome news for consumers, but a great deal of work needs to be done on educating local palates before products can be sold on taste alone.
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☆☆☆☆☆ Overall Chinese wine is making good progress in planting, production and quality but in the short term you may have to travel to China to taste them. With a massive population, many of them moving up the social echelons, there is a massive market to aim for and production levels are still small, despite a wave of new plantings taking the area under cultivation up to 400,000 ha, around 11th in the world. But like most emerging markets it needs endorsement from the established markets and many companies will soon have their sights on exports as well as local sales.
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